Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic 2 Cycle Oil

I’m the type of guy that will putt around town using $20 a quart racing oil. I’m a big fan of Klotz, Motul and Castor Oil. I would never use a ‘cheap oil’, until now…

After a bit of research, I decided to switch to Mystic JT4 Full Synthetic Snowmobile Engine Oil / Mystic JT4 Full Synthetic Person Watercraft Engine Oil. (same thing)
Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic has attributes of an expensive synthetic racing oil.

MYSTIK SAYS: “The advanced formula used in Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic 2-Cycle Engine Oil meets engine requirements for an API TC and JASO FC quality oil. For use in all air-cooled or liquid-cooled 2-cycle (Injector or Premix) Snowmobile engines”.

Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic contains some degree of ESTER SYNTHETIC base oil.

Motul 800, Maxima K2, Bel-Ray H1-R, Red Line Racing and Silkoline Pro 2, Ipone Samourai and Klotz -R50 contain ester synthetic base oils.

Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic is $15+ a quart quality oil, for less than $10 a quart.

STIHL HP ULTRA ester synthetic is $100 per gallon.
MOTUL 800 ester synthetic is $70 per gallon.
BELRAY H1-R ester synthetic is $65 per gallon.
REDLINE Racing ester synthetic is $60 per gallon.
KLOTZ R-50 ester synthetic is $55 per gallon.
MYSTIK JT-4 2 Cycle Full Synthetic $25-$35 per gallon.

Mystik JT-4 full synthetic information suggests that it is technically a semi synthetic, that contains group III and group V base oils.

Mystik JT-4 is not as advanced as a true Ester Synthetic like Motul or Belray, but, it is unusually advanced for it’s price range.

Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic does not have that boat motor smell!

I personally do not want my exhaust to smell like a boat motor or weed eater.
The exhaust smell produced by Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic is quite neutral.

Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic smokes very little during warm up.

Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic is similar to Maxima Super-M
QUOTE: “Super-M is a blend of clean burning petroleum base oil, synthetic polyester, polybutene, anti-scuff / anti-wear compounds and a new additive that keeps rings, power valves and the exhaust tract carbon free.”
Interestingly, Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic and Maxima Super-M are the lowest smoke oils I have ever used. They are lower smoke than true full synthetics like Klotz and Motul.

CONCLUSION
Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic is the most ‘sleeper’ 2 cycle oil on the market.
It’s quite odd to find an inexpensive two stroke oil that contains some degree of group 5 / ester synthetic oil, as well as a very robust additives package.

500+ MILE UPDATE
I’m about to complete an entire season on the same spark plug. (shocking) When I used the best racing oils, it fouled the spark plug every 100 miles. After switching to Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic, fouling plugs seems to be a thing of the past.

The concept of easy starting is brutally obvious with a small displacement two stroke engine. When I was using the best racing oils, the engine required choke to start when the outdoor temperature dipped below 70F.
I have not had to use the choke since switching to Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic. It’s now a ‘starts on the first kick’ machine, even if the outdoor temperature is 40F.

750 MILE UPDATE
It’s time for a new top end. Here is the old top end after 750 miles on Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic.

The head is clean. The exhaust port is clean. The rings are free. Everything looks good.
I am retiring the spark plug after 750 miles of problem free operation.

In the past when I used castor / synthetic racing oil, at 500 miles the rings were stuck and the exhaust port was 25% blocked. (picture below)

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VAST CONCLUSION
This is the ‘best’ oil for putting around town. Nearly all of the concepts on this blog are about obtaining the best result in the street environment.

This would be an excellent 2T oil for a trials bike. The 2T trials bike spends the vast majority of it’s time at extremely low engine RPM, for which is taboo in the two stroke realm. With the right jetting and Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic oil, you could idle all day without fouling a spark plug.

Finally, I have nothing to gain by praising any product. I’m not the type of person that wants other people to use the products that I use. I am not the type of person that is obsessed with saving money. I am not an opinion whore. My goal is to reveal what works best in a specific application.

2020 UPDATE
I have come back three years later to update this posting. I am still using Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic.

The engine has still not fouled a spark plug. This is quite rare for a a 32:1 premix setup.

I usually replace the fragile 70cc top end every two seasons, as there is noticeable power loss after half a dozen soft seizures.
Since I have been using Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic, I have only experienced one soft seize in three years. The bike still has the pull of a fresh top end.

I miss the smell of some of those premium 2T racing oils, but, Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic keeps this engine tight and clean.

Back in the day you would never use 2 cycle ‘boat motor oil’ in a high revving two stroke engine, because ‘boat motor oil’ was specifically designed to allow a 2 stroke engine to idle all day long without fouling the spark plug(s), while occasionally taking the engine to it’s 3500 – 5500 RPM top end.
In today’s world, the ‘boat motor oil’ (Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic) will allow you to idle all day without fouling the spark plugs, yet it now has the 10,000+ RPM protection that you get from a more expensive synthetic.

I personally would not use Mystik JT-4 Full Synthetic in a constant high RPM racing application. In a racing application I would use Klotz Benol, Klotz Super-Techniplate, Castor 927 or Blendzall Ultra.

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FASCINATING OIL TESTING INFORMATION

Years back, someone claiming to be a chemist, claimed to be testing various 2 cycle oils. He published his results on a snowmobile forum. The self proclaimed chemist used terrible grammar and spelling, for which made his claims suspect. However, his RPM and cold point pour numbers are seemingly on par with true scientific information.
Let us also consider that English might not be the chemist’s first language, which might explain the poor spelling and grammar.

QUOTE:
“The R.P.M. Unit (machine) was built with a stainless steel piston that run’s up to 16,000 r.p.m’s, I add E-10 gas into the port hole and add the oil to a 50-1 mix and run it until the database software on the computer tell’s me at what r.p.m. the oil break’s down, It also tell’s me the viscosity under load presure, was there any foam under heat and how much carbon build up under heat. The unit gets to a 116 fahrenheit.

TESTED: Injex pro 2- cycle, The base stock is mineral oil the other is synthetic oil, this oil contains a large amount of detergent’s and ash, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 8,875, With a large amount of foam and heat under high r.p.m, This oil failed my test.

TESTED: Mystik jt-4 synthetic, R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength 13,600, This oil was the best in cold pour point so far with a – 56 f, This oil is excellent and passed my test.

TESTED: Red Line two-stroke snowmobile oil, This oil has 80% base stock’s of very small molecules, It has very low ash, Very good film strength, And a pour point of -42f, Maximum r.p.m. before break down was 11,443, This oil passed my test.

TESTED: Polaris racing synthetic oil, this oil had 85% base stock’s of very small molecules and a very high film strengh, first let’s compare this to ves gold plus, the racing oil has .9% higher visosity then the ves gold plus, But the ves has more corrosion inhibitors then the racing oil, polaris racing synthetic maximum r.p.m. before break down was 12,920, This oil passed my test. with a pour point of -40f. So far the best bang for the buck is the Mystik JT4 synthetic.

TESTED: Amsoil Dominator, pour point -50, This oil has excellent synthetic base stock at 75%, and 25% high processed oil’s, but it has alot of detergent’s in the formula, R.P.M. before break down of the viscosity and film strength was 12,002, This oil passed my test.

TESTED: Legend ZX-2SR: First off under the microscope this oil is not a synthetic oil, but an ultra pure highly refined mineral oil, the molecules are very small, the pour point was -54f. R.P.M. before brake down of the oil viscosity and film strength is unknown. My test unit only goes to 16,000 R.P.M. and the oil never broke down.

TESTED: Polaris synthetic blend (blue) oil, This oil is 70% mineral oil with 30% synthetic in the mix, The molecules are not very uniform, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strengh was 8,988, This oil failed my test.

TESTED: Spectro syn-snow, this oil is 100% synthetic with very small and uniform moecules, there is a detergent in this oil, maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,778, this oil passed my test. pour point was -55f.

TESTED: Legend ZX-2R, This oil is almost the the same as zx-2sr, this is not a synthetic but a highly refined mineral, the molecules are small, But not as small as the zx-2sr, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 13,675, pour point was -48f. This oil passed my test.

TESTED: Yamalube 2s two stroke oil , This oil has a mineral base with synthetic added to the mix 60% mineral, 40% synthetic, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 9,998, Even though the r.p.m. were not that impressive, I am going to pass this oil, Becuse of it’s rust protection, and it is a very clean burning oil, pour point was tested at -33f.

TESTED: Klotz R-50 Techniplate, This oil is all synthetic, and has very small molecules, And it is a thick oil, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 15,579, even though the oil broke down, my test unit stayed at 116f, wierd, this is the first time my unit did this, pour point tested at -14f, this oil passed my test.

TESTED: Shell ADVANCE SNOW ULTRA ,This oil is all synthetic, The molecules are very small and uniform with low ash, This oil is a API-TC, JASO-FC, Maximum R.P.M. before break down of the oil viscosity and film strength was 11,902, this oil passed my test.

TESTED: CASTOR OIL, Yes people out there are using it, Castor is a bean oil, it is a excellent lubricant, With a high R.P.M. of 13,992 before break down, But this oil is very dirty, with carbon build up, this oil failed my test.

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CONCLUSION
This claimed testing revealed that Mytik JT4 Full Synthetic seemingly outperformed oils like RedLine, Amsoil Dominator and Yamalube 2S.

Notice how the test claimed Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic is 70% synthetic.

Notice how the Amsoil results claimed, ‘has alot of detergent’s in the formula’, which is a well known fact.

All of the above information appears to be on par with market and consumer claims.